Estée Lauder launches this February 2012 the new Revitalizing Supreme Global Anti-Aging Creme.
Estée Lauder Revitalizing Supreme Global Anti-Aging Creme could be a new strategy of “de-globalization” of Estée Lauder skincare developments. Even if this was already done for specific markets like Asia where the 1-2-3 Clinique routine was adapted to asian women needs, the launch of Revitalizing Creme is a change in Estée Lauder skincare vision, on several aspects.
First, this formula is claimed to be specifically designed to answer the needs of European women, identified as “cultured, pragmatic, upper middle class, with active life and one desire : to simplify their everyday beauty routine”. The formula thus offers a “global anti-aging action”, claiming to “visibly reduce the multiple signs of aging” : wrinkles and fine lines, density, lack of glow and dehydration. A clear tag of this european oriented product is the total lack of UV filters in the formula. Indeed, as a US-native brand, Estée Lauder used to develop its formulas with US habits : for american women, an anti-aging cream necessarily includes UV protection, since UV are considered as the main cause of aging. The european way is different, and UV filters are not mandatory for european customers.
The apparent simplicity of the product is also new for Estée Lauder, usually very prone to go into detailed biological mechanisms of skin, with a profusion of active ingredients. In this product, “simplicity” is a claim :
– the concept is simple, helped with a strong emphasis on the “new discoveries in genetic aging” and the “12 international patents” protecting the product. No more details
– the benefits are simple yet strong : global anti-aging, global action, sensoriality and pleasure
– the formulation approach is simplier than usual for an Estée Lauder product : the formula is built around a unique surfactant system (Nikko Chemicals Nikkomulese WO-CF), and the number of active ingredients used is limited regarding previous launches. Moreover, most of them have already been used in other products of the Estée Lauder brands. Simplier, yet innovative, since the surfactant system used produces a W/O emulsion with very interesting properties, while the usual technology used in skincare is the O/W emulsion.
This product is thus very interesting, as much for the new technologies used in formulation and active ingredients as for the new “simple” and “global” approach for developing a product in the Estée Lauder brand. This new approach surprisingly corresponds to the departure of its emblematic R&D head (Senior Vice President of Global Research and Development for Estée Lauder), Daniel Maes, who strongly inspired the launches of the Estée Lauder group. Nadine Pernodet (Estée Lauder Companies Executive Director Global Research & Development-Biology) seems to take over his communication role, as one of his close assistants. It will be very interesting to look at the future launch of Lauder Group with this new generation of scientist.
Active ingredients / Claims
The Estée Lauder Revitalizing Supreme Cream is presented as a global anti-aging product, acting on the multiple signs of aging. For such a concept, Estée Lauder found a global biological pathway : the Nrf2 transcription factor, claimed as a “master switch” that can activate the multiple anti-aging defense of the skin. No patent from Estée Lauder seems already available on this technology, but in the past, studies have linked Nrf2 to aging (Genomics analysis of the reduced antioxidant capacity of aging skin by P&G). The Black Bamboo extract, base of the IntuiGen technology, is claimed to activate this Nrf2 switch.
The product is also claimed to include the SIRT-1 Technology, claimed to give skin extra time for self reparation. This could done through the IRB-Dormin active (Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract) detailed below.
The formula is also claimed to comprise a “skin barrier reconstructive complex”, associating lipids (Barnet Phytofix detailed below), anti-oxidants (Ergothioneine, Tocopheryl Acetate), anti-irritants (Caffein). To maintain and improve skin hydration, the formula also contains several polyols (Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Sucrose, Sorbitol, Propylene Carbonate, PEG-32, PEG-6).
More details on the active ingredients are given below :
– Phyllostachys Nigra (Bamboo) Leaf Extract or Black Bamboo Extract : according to the Personal Care Product Counsil Buyer’s Guide, this ingredient is very probably supplied by Access Business Group to Estée Lauder, and would correspond to the main ingredient of the “IntuiGen” technology.
– Propylene Glycol Dicaprate (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Cake (and) Hordeum Vulgare (Barley) Extract (and) Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract : sold under the name Phytofix by Barnet, it is said to be a “blend containing soluble sphingolipids, triglycerides and sterols to mimic the structure of the skin’s lipidic membrane”, claimed to “improve skin condition, reduce in the appearance of lines and wrinkles, reduce flakiness, moisturize and improve skin clarity”.
– Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract : very probably corresponding to IRB-Dormin by IRB. It is “a natural aqueous extract from Nacissus bulbs in their dormant stage”, and claimed to be able to “slow cell proliferation in a reversible and general manner”. For its Dormin range, IRB claims that “slowing cell proliferation prolongs the life span of epidermis and provides the means for complete epidermal maturation. Matured, properly differentiated cells have a better ability to protect inner cell parts from environmental aggressions, such as UV irradiation and xenobiotics, resulting in a enhanced skin aging process”.
– Whey Protein/Lactis Protein/Protéine Du Petit-Lait : already seen on CosmetoScope in Clinique Laser Focus Wrinkle & UV Damage Corrector and Estée Lauder CyberWhite Brilliant Cells, it corresponds to MPC™-Milk Peptide Complex supplied by CLR – Chemlishes Laboratorium Dr Kurt Richter, claimed to visibly reduce the signs of aging. Estée Lauder is working for a long time with CLR : it already used its CLR Repair Complex in Advance Night Repair.
– Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 : already seen on CosmetoScope in Estée Lauder Resilience Lift Firming/Sculpting Collection, Clinique Repairwear Uplifting Firming Cream and Clinique Laser Focus Wrinkle & UV Damage Corrector, it is a peptide sold by Lipotec under the tradename Argireline, claimed to target expression lines, as an alternative to Botulinum Toxin. In Clinique Repairwear Uplifting Firming Cream as “stimulate new natural collagen and elastin production”.
– Acetyl Glucosamine : already seen on CosmetoScope in Clinique Pore Refining Solutions, Estée Lauder CyberWhite Brilliant Cells, Estée Lauder Resilience Lift Firming/Sculpting Collection and Estée Lauder Idealist Even Skintone Illuminator & Idealist Cooling Eye Illuminator, it has been patented by Estée Lauder in 1999 as an exfoliating agent.
– Ergothioneine : already seen on CosmetoScope in Clinique Laser Focus Wrinkle & UV Damage Corrector, Estée Lauder Resilience Lift Firming/Sculpting Collection, Clinique Repairwear Uplifting Firming Cream and Algenist, it has been brought to Lauder by AGI Dermatics, and supplied by Barnet under the trade name Thiotaine, it is claimed to have a role in skin energy production and fatty acid transport, to be an anti-oxidant, especially protector of mitochondria, to be an “anti-stress” molecule, and to have skin clarifying properties. Lauder and AGI own two patents on this ingredient : US20100197750 (Preservation Of Ergothioneine), and the patent linked to the Clinique Laser Focus formula : US6479533 (Methods and compositions for the protection of mitochondria).
– Sodium Hyaluronate : large molecule with good water binding properties
– Tocopheryl Acetate : Vitamin E derivative
Technology / Formula Structure
W/O Emulsion emulsified with Nikko Chemicals Nikkomulese WO-CF (Disteardimonium Hectorite (and) PEG-10 Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone)
The oil phase is made of Isohexadecane, Isododecane and Dimethicone. The oil phase also contains a silicone elastomer : Polysilicone-11. Very probably mixed with Dimethicone, it should be one of the blends sold by Grant Industry : Gransil DMG-2, Gransil DM-5, Gransil DM-5-LV, Gransil DMDM-25, Gransil DMG-20 or Gransil DMG-6. Polysilicone-11 improves speadability and gives to the formula a non-tacky, silky feel.
The aqueous phase contains polyols – Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Sucrose, Sorbitol, Propylene Carbonate, PEG-32, PEG-6 – and Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, a soluble silicone derivative sold by Dow Corning as Dow Corning 2501 Cosmetic Wax.
The formula also contain a powder – Polyethylene – and pigments – Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499).
The formula is protected against microbiological growth by Phenoxyethanol, helped with Disodium EDTA and several polyols (Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Sucrose, Sorbitol, Propylene Carbonate, PEG-32, PEG-6) that decrease the water activity of the formula. Among them, Pentylene Glycol (Symrise Hydrolite-5) has preservative properties.
|Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane|
|Phyllostachys Nigra (Bamboo) Leaf Extract|
|Hordeum Vulgare (Barley) Extract|
|Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract|
|Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract|
|Whey Protein/Lactis Protein/Protéine Du Petit-Lait|
|Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seedcake|
|Propylene Glycol Dicaprate|
|Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499)|