Clinique reformulates in next March 2012 is Repairwear range with two versions of the new Uplifting Firming Cream.

The new Clinique Repairwear Uplifting Firming Cream main concept is to “revolumize the skin, layer by layer”. The two skin-typed formulas, one for Very Dry to Dry and one for Dry Combination to Combination Oily are built around a star ingredient, trademarked as “Mitostime” that stands for stands for “mitochondrial stimulating”.

At this time, we only have informations about the active ingredients in the formulas, not all the ingredients to study the structure.

Once again, Clinique capitalize on the active ingredients acquired through AGI Dermatics : Ergothioneine and Ultrasomes, and on some already used in previously launched products : Whey Protein (CLR Milk Peptide Complex) used in Clinique Repairwear Laser Focus, Siegesbeckia Orientalis Extract (Sederma Siegesbeckia) used in Origins Plantscription Serum, Clinique Repairwear Laser Focus and Clinique Pore Refining Solution, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Lipotec Argireline) used in Clinique Repairwear Laser Focus and Estée Lauder Resilience Lift Firming/Sculpting Collection.

Just like other big cosmetic companies, Estée Lauder – mother company of Clinique – know how to re-use and talk in a different way about interesting active ingredients from its catalog. All their properties are here oriented through the concept of the new Clinique Repairwear Uplifting Firming Cream : “revolumize the skin”.

Active Ingredients

Mitostime is an extract of brown algae or “Laminaria Digitata” said by Clinique to “provide essential energy to tired cells” and to “help strengthen the foundation of the skin, providing the tension to support the collagen and elastin matrix”. The INCI name of Mitostime is “Water (and) Laminaria Digitata Extract“. It is provided by Barnet, who owns the tradename “Mitostime”. As already seen in other studies of Estée Lauder Companies products, Barnet is the provider of several active ingredients used by Lauder through the acquisition of AGI Dermatics. As explained by T. Mammone, Clinique’s Executive Director of Skin Physiology and Pharmacology in this exclusive article from Cosmetics Design Europe, Mitostime would “encourage natural collagen and elastin synthesis, strengthening skin tissue and bolstering moisture retention“.

As an acting layer by layer, Clinique Repairwear Firming Creams have been designed with specific ingredients for each layer of the skin :

– the Hypodermis :

For an action on this layer, the formula contains : Mitostime and Commipheroline.

– Commipheroline is supplied by Soliance (INCI Name : Commiphora Mukul Resin Extract), and is claimed to have a “volumizing effect by increasing adipocyte size”. More precisely, it is said to “present a plumping effect by increasing triglyceride storage in adipocyte”. It is extracted from the root of an Indian tree well-known in Ayurvedic medicine, the Commiphora Mukul Tree. More details are given by Soliance in this article from Personal Care Magazine : “Commiphora mukul is a shrub growing in the Arabian Peninsula and the arid parts of Western India. This tree exudates a resin known as Bdellium in the Bible which is among the oldest fragrant substances. Similar to myrrh, it was traded for centuries by caravans on the Great Arabian Incense Road. Bdellium was part of the gifts brought by the Queen of Sheba to King Solomon.”

– the Dermis :

5 active ingredients are added and said by Clinique to “strengthen and maintain skin’s natural collagen and elastin network” : Centella Asiatica Extract, Whey Protein, Siegesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Soybean Protein and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8.

– Centella Asiatica Extract : said by Clinique to “help strengthen the dermal layer”

– Whey Protein : said by Clinique to “encourage natural collagen and elastin production while minimising the appearance of lines and wrinkles”, it is also used in Clinique Repairwear Laser Focus. It would be supplied by CLR under the tradename MPC™-Milk Peptide Complex.

– Siegesbeckia Orientalis Extract : already seen in Origins Plantscription Serum, Clinique Repairwear Laser Focus and Clinique Pore Refining Solutions, it is marketed “Siegesbeckia” by Sederma, and claimed as having anti-inflammatory properties and protecting collagen. It is presented in the press release for Clinique new Repairwear as “a botanical extract derived from the leaves of a plant in Madagascar that helps prevent the loss of collagen and elastin”.

– Soybean Protein : presented as “working to encourage natural collagen and elastin production to plump skin and fill lines”.

– Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 : already seen in Clinique Repairwear Laser Focus and Estée Lauder Resilience Lift Firming/Sculpting Collection, it is a peptide sold by Lipotec under the tradename Argireline, claimed to target expression lines, as an alternative to Botulinum Toxin. In Clinique Repairwear Uplifting Firming Cream as “stimulate new natural collagen and elastin production”.

– the Epidermis :

The Clinique features 4 active ingredients for this layer : Mitostime, Astrocaryum Murumuru Butter, Ergothioneine and Ultrasomes V

– Astrocaryum Murumuru Butter is said to “help maintain moisture barrier strength, encouraging the skin to become stronger and better able to resist external aggressors”. Beraca is a supplier of this ingredient. It is actually a fatty raw material, rich in lauric acid, with emollient and skin moisturizing properties.

– Ergothioneine : already used in Clinique Repairwear Laser Focus and Resilience Lift Firming/Sculpting Collection, it has been brought to Lauder by AGI Dermatics, and supplied by Barnet under the trade name Thiotaine, it is claimed to have a role in skin energy production and fatty acid transport, to be an anti-oxidant, especially protector of mitochondria, to be an “anti-stress” molecule, and to have skin clarifying properties

– Ultrasomes V : would very probably correspond to the INCI name “Micrococcus Lysate“, they also have been brought to Lauder through AGI Dermatics acquisition, and supplied by Barnet. Already seen in Clinique Repairwear Laser Focus, Ultrasomes are claimed to contain DNA repair enzymes. More precisely in Clinique Repairwear Uplifting Firming Cream, they would “work over time to gradually visibly repair damage resulting from UV exposure that could lead to further collagen and elastin degradation”.

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