Olay extends its Age Defying range in February 2012 with 2 new formulas.
Age Defying is the range of Olay products dedicated to the treatment of “early signs of aging”. Two new formulas are added this winter 2012.
Olay Age Defying 2-in-1 Anti-Wrinkle Day Cream + Serum
This formula is very similar in terms of technology to the classical Olay Regenerist Serum, Estée Lauder Idealist of Perfectionist Serums, made of siliconated emulsion rich in silicone elastomer. Olay sells here its formula as a 2-in-1, with both anti-wrinkle and firming properties. The anti-wrinkle effect is consistent with the ingredients used in the formula. However, the firming / lifting property is not as obvious. One can consider that through a blurring effect, the formula gives a “visual” lifting of skin. But the formula does not contain ingredient that would give a “lifting” sensation, like a tensor (a polymer that forms a film on skin surface) that would give a tightening sensation, or solid fatty bodies, like fatty alcohols, that build up on skin and give a sensation of “density”.
Communication & Claims
This product packed in an airless pump packaging is presented by Olay as associating both at the same time an anti-wrinkle cream and a firming serum, and claiming to :
– “plump skin with intense moisture” :
The formula contains indeed 10% Glycerin, a very classical moisturizing ingredient. Thanks to its moisturizing properties, it can help to attenuate fine dehydration lines, and makes skin more supple and soft, thus “plumped” in a marketing wording.
– “target the appearance of deep wrinkles around the forehead, mouth and eyes” :
This effect is claimed to be achieved with the three vitamins included in the formula : Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide, 2%), Vitamine B5 (Panthenol) and Vitamine E (Tocopheryl Acetate). P&G, mother company of the Olay brand, owns a lot of patents on the Niacinamide family of molecules, and uses it as its central anti-aging / whitening / … active ingredient in lots of products of the Olay brand.
Appart from a “biological” effect due to active ingredients, Olay also emphasizes the presence of ingredients that have a “physical” effect on skin appearance :
– “Silicone elastomers” (Dimethicone Crosspolymer) claimed to “scatter light to lessen the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles”. These silicone elastomer are said to have “soft focus” effect on skin, optically blurring the relief and irregularities of the skin surface. In addition to this optical effect, silicone elastomers also give to formulas a specific velvety touch. Here in the formula, the Dimithicone Crosspolymer elastomer is helped by other silicones (Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone and Dimethiconol) in this task.
– “Mica” or pearls that act as small mirrors that reflect light and make skin more radiant.
– “helps protect skin from free radicals” :
Three anti-oxidant ingredients are present in the formula : Green Tea Extract (Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, 0.1%), Vitamine E (Tocopheryl Acetate, 0.5%) and BHT (0.05%). BHT is usually used as an anti-oxidant to prevent oxidation of other ingredients in formulas, more than as an active ingredient like here.
Formula Structure
Emulsified gel of Seppic Sepigel 305 (Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7)
The oil phase is made of Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Crosspolymer and Dimethiconol
The aqueous phase contains 10% of Glycerin
The formula also contains several powders : Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Polyethylene and pearls (Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide)
The formula is perfumed and colored with 2 dyes : Yellow 5 and Red 40
Preservative System
The formula is protected against microbiological growth with DMDM Hydantoin and Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, helped with Disodium EDTA.
The formula contains an anti-oxidant BHT usually used to protect formulas against oxidation. However, since its concentration is given (0.05%), it can also be considered here as an active ingredient, which is quite unusual for this ingredient.
Active Ingredients
The formula contains the following active ingredients
– Glycerin (10%)
– Niacinamide (2%)
– Panthenol (0.5%)
– Tocopheryl Acetate (0.5%)
– Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (0.1%)
– BHT (0.05%)
Olay Age Defying Anti-Wrinkle Targeted Wrinkle Treatment
This formula is an O/W emulsion built around a sugar derivative surfactant (Seppic Montanov 68) and 2 thickening polymers (Sppic Sepigel 305 and Cognis Cosmedia SP). This polymers are less classic than usual Carbomer and Xanthan Gum. The novelty of this product would be its positionning as “targeted” skincare, mainly claimed through the use of a “precision applicator”, actually a canula tube, not so innovative (see L’Oréal Paris Collagen Filler already using this kind of pack for a precise delivery).
Communication & Claims
This formula is claimed to be a “targeted” treatment for “pronouced wrinkles”. It is claimed to :
– “Target wrinkles” : anti-wrinkle ingredients are mainly vitamins, Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide, 2%), Vitamine B5 (Panthenol) and Vitamine E (Tocopheryl Acetate) like in the Olay Age Defying 2-in-1 Anti-Wrinkle Day Cream + Serum studied above.
– “Plump with moisture” : the formula contains Glycerin and an Aloe Vera extract (Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract) are known as moisturizing ingredients
– “Help to firm skin” : through moisturization, the formula can help to make skin smoother, more elastic. The use of several fatty bodies (fatty alcohols and acid)
Formula Structure
O/W Emulsion, emulsified with Seppic Montanov 68 (Cetearyl Glucoside (and) Cetearyl Alcohol) / PEG-100 Stearate, helped with co-emulsifiers (Stearyl Alcohol / Cetyl Alcohol / Behenyl Alcohol / Stearic Acid), thickened and stabilized with Seppic Sepigel 305 (Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7) and Cognis Cosmedia SP (Sodium Polyacrylate/Polyacrylic Acid)
The oil phase is made of Isohexadecane, Isopropyl Isostearate, Dimethicone, Dimethiconol.
The aqueous phase contains Glycerin.
The formula also contains several powders : Aluminum Starch Octenysuccinate, Nylon-12, Polyethylene and pearls (Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide)
The formula is perfumed.
Preservative System
The formula is protected against microbiological growth with Benzyl Alcohol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Imidazolidinyl Urea, helped with Disodium EDTA.
Active Ingredients
The formula contains the following active ingredients
– Niacinamide
– Tocopheryl Acetate
– Panthenol
– Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
– Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
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