Nivea is currently releasing on the market a line-up of 5 “solid face cleansers”.

This launch is another step of Nivea into sustainability, after the launch of the Naturally Good range in February 2020, promoting 2 main claims on packs :

  • naturality : the products are 99% from natural origin, and COSMOS Natural certified
  • responsible packaging : no plastic, with recycled paper.

The “zero plastic” / “no plastic” claims appear on 4 of the 6 sides of the pack, which tends to mean that it is the main claim that Nivea wants to promote with this launch.

As detailed below, formulas are natural origin, but Nivea could have gone further, avoiding for example the use of sulfates. Even though 99% natural origin, they still contain synthetic dyes (CI 77891, CI 77007 and CI 77288 in 2 of the four formulas).

As for any big historical player of the cosmetic industry, it is always interesting to see these steps towards more sustainable products. However, one should not forget to put in perspective this “zero plastic” claim with the use of plastic in ALL the rest of the line-up of Nivea. But every step is good to highlight.

Technology & Claims

As highlighted in bold below, the 4 solid cleansers share the same technology, made of Sodium Coco-Sulfate, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate and soaps of Palmitic Acid and Stearic Acid with Sodium Hydroxide (i.e. Sodium Palmate and Sodium Stearate).

Sodium Coco-Sulfate is the main surfactant : it is a solid derivative of Coconut Oil, without ethoxylation (unlike Sodium Laureth Sulfate). This gives it a better natural profile. But remains a part of the family of “sulfate” surfactants very discussed by consumer for their supposed harshness. Nivea made the choice to work with sulfates for these new products.

Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate is added in the mix. Part of the “glutamate” family of surfactant, based on the L-glutamic acid, a naturally occuring amino-acid. It is very mild for the skin and hair, with very good foaming behavior. Because of its affinity for keratin, it leaves a pleasant feel on the skin. It is an excellent choice for natural oriented cleansers.

Palmitic and Stearic Acid are part of the game. These two ingredients are fatty acids, classically used with a base (Potassium Hydroxide or Sodium Hydroxide) to create a soap molecule (Potassium Palmate/Stearate or Sodium Palmate/Stearate). One will notice the presence in the formula of Sodium Hydroxide, while at the same time Nivea claims “soap free” on the pack of the product. In order to avoid the formation of soap molecules, Nivea has propably played carefully with the pH of the formulas to avoid the formation of soap between Palmitic/Stearic Acid and Sodium Hydroxide. This looks to be confirmed as Nivea claims that this 5 solid cleansers have a “neutral pH”. As Palmitic and Stearic Acid in the formula, these two ingredients provide the “solids” needed to mold the formulas as a bar soap.

Out of these 4 surfactants, Nivea added other ingredients that helps to make the overall formulas milder, like a very soft surfactant sugar-derived (Coco-Glucoside), and refatting agents (Glyceryl Oleate and Hydrogenated Palm Glyceride Citrate).

Naturally Clean Refreshing

Ingredients :

Sodium Coco-Sulfate, Distarch Phosphate, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Aqua, Citric Acid, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Betaine, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Glycerin, Coco-Glucoside, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Glyceryl Oleate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate, Lecithin, Sodium Sulfate, Sorbic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Citrate, Potassium Sorbate, Geraniol, Parfum, CI 77891, CI 77007

Naturally Clean Pore Reducing Scrub

Ingredients :

Sodium Coco-Sulfate, Aqua, Citric Acid, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Sodium Sulfate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Betaine, Oryza Sativa Powder, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Kaolin, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Coco-Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate, Lecithin, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Linalool, Geraniol, Parfum, CI 77891, CI 77288

Naturally Clean Soothing

Ingredients :

Sodium Coco-Sulfate, Distarch Phosphate, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Aqua, Citric Acid, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Betaine, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Coco-Glucoside, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Glyceryl Oleate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate, Lecithin, Sodium Sulfate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Citrate

Naturally Clean Purifying Scrub

Ingredients :

Sodium Coco-Sulfate, Aqua, Citric Acid, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Sulfate, Betaine, Charcoal Powder, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Coco-Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate, Lecithin, Sodium Hydroxide, Linalool, Limonene, Parfum.

Naturally Clean Brightening

Ingredients :

Sodium Coco-Sulfate, Distarch Phosphate, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Aqua, Citric Acid, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Betaine, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Coco-Glucoside, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Glyceryl Oleate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate, Lecithin, Sodium Sulfate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Citrate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Sorbic Acid, Limonene, Geraniol, Citronellol, Parfum, CI 77891, CI 77007

By A.B.

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