Beiersdorf tackles naturality with introduction of Florena in Western Europe

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With the history of this brand originating in Soviet Germany, the repositioning made by Beiersdorf in France is an interesting move. Florena is the trial of Beiersdorf to enter into naturality, with a different approach than L’Oreal in mass market : Florena is not betting on organic cosmetic, but on naturality, and natural technologies. Indeed, Florena selected fermented natural oils with improved efficiency vs standard oils. But will the high level of naturality of the products will overpass the absence of organic certification ?

The Florena brand

Florena was once the Soviet Germany version of the Western Germany’s Beiersdorf’s Nivea products. Acquired in 2002 by Beiersdorf, the brand is living a new revolution, transformed into the weapon of Beiersdorf to tackle natural cosmetics in Western Europe.

History

In 1852, Waldheimer Parfumerie und Toilettenseifenfabrik, one of the first cosmetics manufacturing companies in Germany, was founded by Pharmacist Adolf Bergmann.

The brand Florena was bord in 1920, used on a talcum powder.

After World War II, being on the east side of Germany, the firm owning Florena was nationalized and renamed “VEB Rosodont-Werke”. In 1950 was launched the Florena skin cream.

From 1965, Florena Creme started to be sold out of Germany’s border, mainly in Eastern Bloc countries and former Soviet Union. Florena was in a way the Nivea brand of the Eastern Bloc.

After the Wall fall down in Berlin, Florena started to cooperate with Beiersdorf (owner of Nivea brand), manufacturing Nivea under license in 1989. In 2002, Beiersdorf bought Florena Cosmetic GmbH : Florena became a brand of Beiersdorf.

To consistently complement its portfolio of brands, and avoid a competition between Nivea and Florena, Beiersdorf repositioned Florena in 2007 with a focus on natural ingredients and formulations.

The Florena Creme

The Florena Creme was a very classic, “universal” skincare product back in Eastern Bloc. Its popularity is such, that it is still commercialized today and competes in some countries with the Nivea Creme. Now both in Beiersdorf portfolio, they are to classic multi-use creams.

Here is below a comparison of the ingredient list of current Nivea Creme and Florena Creme :

Nivea Creme :

Aqua, Paraffinum Liquidum, Cera Microcristallina, Glycerin, Lanolin Alcohol, Paraffin, Panthenol, Magnesium Sulfate, Decyl Oleate, Octyldodecanol, Aluminum Stearates, Citric Acid, Magnesium Stearate, Limonene, Geraniol, Hydroxycitronellal, Linalool, Citronellol, Benzyl Benzoate, Cinnamyl Alcohol, Parfum

Florena Creme :

Aqua, Paraffinum Liquidum, Cera Microcristallina, Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Paraffin, Lanolin Alcohol, Magnesium Sulfate, Citronellol, Linalool, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Limonene, Geraniol, Parfum

Florena and Nivea Creme share many aspects : both are W/O emulsions, most of the oil phases are similar (Paraffinum Liquidum, Cera Microcristallina, Paraffin). However, their surfactant systems are different : while Nivea Creme mainly relies on Lanolin Alcohol supported with Aluminum and Magnesium stearates, Florena Creme is based on Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, sold by Evonik under the tradename Isolan GI 34. This surfactant fits with the “natural” positioning of Florena brand, as being from natural origin, PEG-free.

Florena formulas today in Eastern market

The existing legacy range in Eastern market of Florena is made of Face care and Hand Care formulas, each of them built around botanicals : apricot kernel oil, olive oil, grape seed oil, argan oil and aloe vera. They target dry skins, very dry skins, mature skins, sensitive skins, a provide moisturization, revitalization or anti-wrinkle effect.

They follow formulation guidelines claimed on each formula : no artificial dye, mineral oil, silicones and PEG, and they are vegan (understood as without ingredients from animal origin).

Florena also includes a range of men products.

Just to note that the Florena Creme partially follows these guidelines, as it contains petroleum derived fats (Paraffinum Liquidum, Cera Microcristallina, Paraffin), and a ingredient from animal origin (Lanolin Alcohol).

Launch of Florena in Western Europe

The line-up

While going to a range of products focused on naturality for Eastern Europe, Beiersdorf streches a lot the Florena brand for its introduction in Western Europe : updated logo, new packaging, new formulas, certifications and strong nature-oriented claims.

The line-up is made of face creams, masks, oils and soap :

  • 24h Moisturizing Cream
  • 24h Nourishing Cream
  • 24h Moisturizing Face Mask
  • Regenerating Face Oil Elixir
  • Glow Face Oil Elixir
  • Dermatological Face Soap

Claims and communication

Above efficiency, Florena is a line of products promoting its naturality. The formulas are compliant with the Cosmos Natural standard, claiming 99% natural origin and vegan formulas. But they are not organic like Garnier or La Provencale are (from L’Oréal Group).

As many natural lines, the efficiency claims remains very simple, without complex details on biological mechanisms : hydrating, nourishing or anti-wrinkle.

Formulas & Technologies

Ingredients lists are provided on Florena’s website, with details on the origin of each ingredient (in French), but not their function, which we are detailing afterwards.

24h Moisturizing Cream

Ingredient list :

Aqua – Eau purifiée
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride – Noix de coco
Glycerin – Noix de coco / Huile de noix de palme (RSPO) / Graines de colza
Persea Gratissima Oil – Avocat
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter – Graines de fruits
Cetearyl Alcohol – Noix de coco
Hydrogenated Olive Oil Cetyl Esters – Olives
Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate – Diverses huiles végétales
Alcohol Denat – Canne à sucre
Behenyl Alcohol – Graines de colza
Glyceryl Stearate – Huile de palme (RSPO)
Octyldodecanol – Huile de noix de coco
Lactobacillus Ferment – Produit de la fermentation de l’acide lactique
Pseudozyma Epicola/Olive Fruit Oil Ferment Filtrate – Huile d’olive fermentée par une levure
Stearyl Alcohol – Huiles végétales
Lactobacillus/Camellia Sinensis Leaf/Clover Flower/Cocoa Flower Ferment Filtrate – Fermentation de feuilles de camélia, cacao, fleurs de Trèfle Rouge
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil – Graines de tournesol
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil – Graines d’argan
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil – Graines de jojoba
Tocopherol – Soja
Octyldodecyl Oleate – Huile d’olive ou de coco
Glyceryl Undecylenate – Huile de ricin
Glyceryl Caprylate – Huiles végétales
Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate – Olive ou huile de coco
Microcrystalline Cellulose – Cellulose de bois
Xanthan Gum – Cellulose de bois
Polyhydroxystearic Acid – Huile de ricin
Cellulose Gum – Cellulose
Citric Acid – Canne à sucre ou betterave à sucre
Sodium Hydroxide – Agent neutralisant / Origine non végétale
Benzyl Alcohol – Conservateur / Origine non végétale
Methyl Benzoate – Ingrédient du parfum /composant principal de l’huile essentielle d’ylang ylang
Linalool – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de coriandre
Citral – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de cubeba de Litsea
Benzyl Salicylate – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal des huiles essentielles d’ylang ylang et de géranium
Limonene – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle d’orange
Citronellol – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de géranium (pelargonium graveolens)
Eugenol – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de feuille de clou de girofle
Parfum – Parfum d’origine naturelle

This cream is an O/W emulsion, using Polyglyceryl-2-Stearate as main surfactant, supported by Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol and Behenyl Alcohol as co-emulsifiers, thickened and stabilized with Xanthan Gum, Cellulose Gum and Microcristalline Cellulose..

The oil phase is made of Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Avocado Oil (Persea Gratissima Oil), Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter), Sunflower Oil (Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil), Argan Oil (Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil), Jojoba Oil (Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil).

The oil phase contains also :

  • Hydrogenated Olive Oil Cetyl Esters : supplied by Sophim under the tradename Phytowax Olive POL16L55, it is a natural wax, sourced from olive oil, presented as an alternative to synthetic waxes and paraffins. It is claimed to have high moisturizing properties, and to provide very soft and smooth textures.
  • Inollient LO from DKSH (Octyldodecyl Oleate (and) Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Octyldodecanol). This blend is presented by its supplier as liquid mainly composed of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids displaying hydrophilic groups with high affinity for water molecules. The main benefits provided by innollient™ LO are the spreadability index and a unique skin feel coupled to a significant improvement of the skin resiliency. From natural origin, it is presented as a natural alternative to volatile silicone (cyclomethicone).
  • Fermentoil Olive from LABIO (Pseudozyma Epicola/Olive Fruit Oil Ferment Filtrate) : produced on a Korean patented fermentation process initially developed to help clean the waste oil in the ocean, this fermented olive oil is claimed to be reacher in free fatty acid than raw olive oil, with an improved emulsifying capacity. As skin benefit, Fermentoils have an improved anti-oxidative effect, and are sources of linoleic (“omega-6”) and linolenic acid (“omega-3”).

The water phase contains Glycerin, and several botanicals and extracts linked to fermentation : Lactobacillus Ferment, Lactobacillus/Camellia Sinensis Leaf/Clover Flower/Cocoa Flower Ferment Filtrate (fermented leafs of Camelia, Cocoa and Clover).

The formula is protected against microbiological growth by Alcohol Denat., Glyceryl Undecylenate, Glyceryl Caprylate and Benzyl Alcohol. A blend of Glyceryl Caprylate and Glyceryl Undecylenate can be found at Inolex under the tradename Lexgard Natural MB. Glyceryl Caprylate (C8 acid) is claimed to have bacteriostatic activity on bacteria and yeast, while Glyceryl Undecylenate (C11 acid) is active on fungus.

24h Nourishing Cream

Ingredient list :

Aqua – Eau purifiée
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride – Noix de coco
Glycerin – Noix de coco / Huile de noix de palme (RSPO) / Graines de colza
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil – Amandes douces
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter – Graines de fruits
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate – Noix de coco et huile de palme (RSPO)
Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate – Diverses huiles végétales
Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Glycerides – Huile de palme (RSPO)
Hydrogenated Olive Oil – Olives
Behenyl Alcohol – Graines de colza
Glyceryl Stearate – Huile de palme (RSPO)
Lactobacillus Ferment – Produit de la fermentation de l’acide lactique
Microcrystalline Cellulose – Cellulose de bois
Pseudozyma Epicola/Olive Fruit Oil Ferment Filtrate – Huile d’olive fermentée par une levure
Stearyl Alcohol – Huiles végétales
Lactobacillus/Camellia Sinensis Leaf/Clover Flower/Cocoa Flower Ferment Filtrate – Fermentation de feuilles de Camélia, Cacao, fleurs de Trèfle Rouge
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil – Olives
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil – Graines de Jojoba
Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil – Graines de Fruit de la Passion
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil – Graines de Tournesol
Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables – Olives
Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides – Huile de palme (RSPO)
Tocopherol – Soja
Glyceryl Caprylate – Huiles végétales
Glyceryl Undecylenate – Huile de Ricin
Microcrystalline Cellulose – Cellulose de bois
Xanthan Gum – Cellulose de boisCellulose Gum – Cellulose de bois
Citric Acid – Canne à sucre ou Betterave à sucre
Sodium Hydroxide – Agent neutralisant / Origine non végétale
Benzyl Alcohol – Conservateur / Origine non végétale
Methyl Benzoate – Ingrédient du parfum /composant principal de l’huile essentielle d’ylang ylang
Linalool – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de coriandre
Citral – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de cubeba de Litsea
Benzyl Salicylate – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal des huiles essentielles d’ylang ylang et de géranium
Limonene – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle d’orange
Citronellol – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de géranium (pelargonium graveolens)
Eugenol – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de feuille de clou de girofle
Parfum – Parfum d’origine naturelle

The structure of the formula is the same as for the 24h Moisturizing Cream, except for the oil phase, enriched with different and heavier fats, to make is more nourishing. The oil phase of the 24h Nourishing Cream is thus made of : Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sweet Almond Oil (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil), Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter), Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Glycerides, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Olive Oil (Olea Europaea Fruit Oil), Jojoba Seed Oil (Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil), Passion Fruit Seed Oil (Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil), Sunflower Oil (Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil), Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides.

24h Moisturizing Face Mask

Ingredient list :

Aqua – Eau purifiée
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride – Noix de Coco
Glycerin – Noix de Coco / Huile de noix de Palme (RSPO) / Graines de Colza
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil – Amandes douces
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter – Graines de fruits
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate – Noix de Coco et Huile de noix de Palme (RSPO)
Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate – Diverses huiles végétales
Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Glycerides – Huile de Palme (RSPO)
Hydrogenated Olive Oil – Olives
Behenyl Alcohol – Graines de Colza
Glyceryl Stearate – Huile de Palme (RSPO)
Lactobacillus Ferment – Produit de la fermentation de l’acide lactique Microcrystalline Cellulose – Cellulose de bois
Pseudozyma Epicola/Olive Fruit Oil Ferment Filtrate – Huile d’Olive fermentée par une levure
Stearyl Alcohol – Huiles végétales
Lactobacillus/Camellia Sinensis Leaf/Clover Flower/Cocoa Flower Ferment Filtrate – Fermentation de feuilles de Camélia, Cacao, fleurs de Trèfle Rouge
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil – Olives
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil – Graines de Jojoba
Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil – Graines de Fruit de la Passion
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil – Graines de Tournesol
Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables – Olives
Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides – Huile de Palme (RSPO)
Tocopherol – Soja
Glyceryl Caprylate – Huiles végétales
Glyceryl Undecylenate – Huile de Ricin
Xanthan Gum – Cellulose de bois
Cellulose Gum – Cellulose de bois
Citric Acid – Canne à sucre ou Betterave à sucre
Sodium Hydroxide – Agent neutralisant / Origine non végétale
Benzyl Alcohol – Conservateur / Origine non végétale
Methyl Benzoate – Ingrédient du parfum /composant principal de l’huile essentielle d’ylang ylang
Linalool – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de coriandre
Citral – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de cubeba de Litsea
Benzyl Salicylate – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal des huiles essentielles d’ylang ylang et de géranium
Limonene – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle d’orange
Citronellol – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de géranium (pelargonium graveolens)
Eugenol – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de feuille de clou de girofle
Parfum – Parfum d’origine naturelle

This formula is indentical to the 24h Nourishing Cream, from an ingredient list point of view. Than it could differ in the concentration of some ingredients, to optimize the formulation for a use as a mask.

Regenerating Face Oil Elixir

Ingredient list

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride – Noix de Coco
Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil – Graines de Macadamia
Dicaprylyl Ether – Noix de Coco
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate – Huile de Noix de Coco et Huile de Palme (RSPO)
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil – Abricot
Pseudozyma Epicola/Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil Ferment Filtrate – Huile d’Argan et autres huiles végétales fermentées par une levure
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil – Graines d’Argan
Pseudozyma Epicola/Apricot Kernel Oil/Olive Fruit Oil/Sunflower Seed Oil/Sweet Almond Oil/Panax Ginseng Root – Ginseng rouge et autres huiles végétales fermentées par une levure
Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil – Graines de Fruit de la Passion
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil – Graines de Tournesol
Xerochrysum Bracteatum Flower – Fleurs d’immortelle
Tocopherol – Soja
Methyl Benzoate – Ingrédient du parfum /composant principal de l’huile essentielle d’ylang ylang
Linalool – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de coriandre
Citral – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de Litsea Cubeba
Benzyl Salicylate – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal des huiles essentielles d’ylang ylang et de géranium
Limonene – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle d’orange
Citronellol – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de géranium (pelargonium graveolens)
Eugenol – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de feuille de clou de girofle
Parfum – Parfum d’origine naturelle

This formula is an anhydrous liquid, mainly made of a blend of natural origin (Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Dicaprylyl Ether, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate) and natural oils (Macadamia, Apricot, Argan, Passiflora, Sunflower).

It contains the fermented oils (including the fermented Argan oil, claimed on this product), star ingredients of the Florena range. It also contains dry petals of Everlasting flower (Xerochrysum Bracteatum Flower), a very trendy (yet only aesthetical) feature used at the moment by cosmetic manufacturer to reinforce the naturality of a product.

Radiance Face Oil Elixir

Ingredient list

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride – Noix de Coco
Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil – Graines de Macadamia
Dicaprylyl Ether – Noix de Coco
Persea Gratissima Oil – Avocat
Pseudozyma Epicola/Safflower Seed Oil Ferment Extract Filtrate – Carthame fermenté par une levure
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil – Graines de Jojoba
Pseudozyma Epicola/Apricot Kernel Oil/Olive Fruit Oil/Sweet Almond Oil/Sunflower Seed Oil/Licorice Root Extract Ferment Extract Filtrate – Huile de graines de tournesol et autres huiles végétales fermentées par une levure
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil – Graines de tournesol
Xerochrysum Bracteatum Flower – Fleurs d’immortelle
Dicaprylyl Carbonate – Noix de Coco et Huile de Palme (RSPO)
Tocopherol – Soja
Methyl Benzoate – Ingrédient du parfum /composant principal de l’huile essentielle d’ylang ylang
Linalool – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de coriandre
Citral – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de Litsea cubeba
Benzyl Salicylate – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal des huiles essentielles d’ylang ylang et de géranium
Limonene – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle d’orange
Citronellol – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de géranium (pelargonium graveolens)
Eugenol – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de feuille de clou de girofle
Parfum – Parfum d’origine naturelle

Similar formula as previous one, the difference being on the claimed fermented oil, the Safflower Fermented Oil.

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