Biotherm has launched in March 2012 a new range for imperfection-prone skins : Biotherm Pure.fect Skin.

The range is made of five products :

– Anti-Shine Gentle Scrub Soap Bar

– Anti-shine Purifying Cleansing Gel

– Micro-exfoliating Purifying Toner

– Pure Skin Effect Hydrating Gel

– Anti-imperfection Targeted Solution

This new range provides a complete routine for imperfection-prone skins, with two cleanser (including a soap bar, which is not so common), a gel cleanser associating a Glycinate surfactant to a soap, a texturized toner, a hydroalcoholic emulsion moisturizer (the star product of the range) and a hydroalcoholic targetted treatment. The communication emphasizes the use of an algae extract (identified as Codif Phycosaccharide AC). Formulation technologies and active ingredient are classical yet robust for a range dedicated to oily skin. The only point of difference in the concept would be on the target, as the range is claimed to treat imperfection at all ages, in teenager and adults.

Communication and Claims

Biotherm states in its communication that imperfections are not only an issue for teenager, but also for older people, giving the following figures : “70% of European women suffer such problems up to the age of 29, and 60% up to the age of 40”. These late imperfections would be caused by lifestyle factors (stress, diet), combined with environmental conditions (heat, humidity, air pollution).

Biotherm’s answer is its new range Pure.fect claimed to be the “first global anti-imperfection solution” for both early and late-onset skin imperfections, with a triple-action on shine, visible pores and other imperfections. Adult imperfection is not a new concept actually : Clinique for example sell a line dedicated to acne (Acne Solutions), and a more adult-oriented range treating imperfections and more precisely pores (Pore Refining Solutions). Vichy (from the L’Oréal group like Biotherm) has just released the new Normaderm Anti-Agingi Resurfacing Anti-Imperfection Anti-Wrinkle care.

Active Ingredients :

– Codif Phycosaccharide AC (INCI name : Hydrolyzed Algin (and) Zinc Sulfate) :

The star ingredient of the range is a Laminaria Digitata Extract, an extract from an algae said by Biotherm to “defend itself against UV rays and continual bacterial attack, it secretes a powerful anti-bacterial substance”. Regarding the ingredient lists of the Pure.fect formulas, this active ingredient very probably corresponds to Codif Phycosaccharide AC (INCI name : Hydrolyzed Algin (and) Zinc Sulfate) associating an extract of Laminaria Digitata to Zinc Sulfate. Codif owns a patent on the process to prepare such an ingredient derived from Laminaria Digitata (chelation of an oligoalginate obtained from Laminaria Digitata to Zinc ions). Phycosaccharide AC is claimed to be a polysaccharide that has anti-inflammatory, while Zinc has anti-bacterial properties. Phycosaccharide AC is said to “regulate the production of sebum and control the development of Propionobacterium Acnes and Staphylococcus Aureus for a visible reduction in the number of acne related lesions and to soothe an inflamed epidermis“.

Codif Phytosaccharide AC is used in 3 of the 5 products of the range (Anti-Shine Gentle Scrub Soap Bar, Anti-shine Purifying Cleansing Gel and Pure Skin Effect Hydrating Gel)

– Salicylic Acid :

The classical anti-bacterial / keratolytic active ingredient is of course present in this range dedicated to imperfection-prone skins, only in the non rinced-off formulas (Micro-exfoliating Purifying Toner, Pure Skin Effect Hydrating Gel and Anti-imperfection Targeted Solution).

– NOF Wilbride S-753 (PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin) :

Trademarked by L’Oréal under the name “Aquatoril” and already seen in L’Oréal Paris Youth Code Luminize, it is claimed by its supplier to act synergistically with Glycerin in moisturizing skin.

– Perlite :

The use of Perlite in the Pure Skin Effect Hydrating Gel is also emphasized. It is said to be “extracted from volcanic rock“, and claimed to “help absorb humidity and oil on the skin’s surface for a mattifying effect“. L’Oréal owns several patents on the cosmetic use of this ingredient.

– Vitreoscilla Ferment :

Apart from this star active ingredient, all the formulas contains the Vitreoscilla Ferment, the “Thermal Plankton”, transversal active ingredient to the Biotherm range. L’Oreal owns several patents on this active ingredient. This active ingredient is claimed to “enable each [Biotherm] formula to work in sync with skin’s own nature, bringing it back to its optimal state so it can better resist stress and damage“.

– Other active ingredients :

Apart from the five previous active ingredients, the formulas of Biotherm Pure.fect range contains minerals (Zinc PCA, Zinc Gluconate, Copper Gluconate), vitamin (Tocopherol), Potassium Glycyrrhizate (known for enhancing the appearance of dry or damaged skin by reducing flaking and restoring suppleness) and Potassium Alum (known to be astringent/styptic and antiseptic).

Biotherm Pure.fect Skin Anti-Shine Gentle Scrub Soap Bar

Formula Technology

Solid soap based on soap surfactants : Sodium Palmate, Sodium Palm Kernelate, solidified with Palmitic Acid and Palm Kernel Acid. The formula contains Chondrus Crispus Powder as gentle exfoliating powder. It also contains sequestring agents (Tetrasodium Etidronate, Pentasodium Pentetate) that helps to preserve foaming action with hard water.

The formula contains fragrance and dyes (CI 19140, CI 77288)

Preservatives

Soaps are formulations with very basic pH, and are consequently naturally protected against microbiological growth.

Active Ingredients

The formula contains the following active ingredients :

– Zinc PCA

– Vitreoscilla Ferment

– Codif Phycosaccharide AC (Hydrolyzed Algin (and) Zinc Sulfate)

Biotherm Pure.fect Skin Anti-shine Purifying Cleansing Gel

Formula Technology

Foaming gel based on the following foaming surfactant system : Coco-betaine, Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate and a soap : Lauric Acid neutralized with Triethanolamine.

The formula also contains PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, which acts as a thickener and a foam booster.

The formula contains a powder, Clay (INCI Name : Argilla)

The formula also contains glycols : Glycerin and Dipropylene Glycol.

The formula contains fragrance.

Preservatives

The formula is protected against microbiological growth with Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, helped with Dipropylene Glycol and Tetrasodium EDTA.

Active Ingredients

The formula contains the following active ingredients :

– Codif Phycosaccharide AC (Hydrolyzed Algin (and) Zinc Sulfate)

– Vitreoscilla Ferment

Biotherm Pure.fect Skin Micro-exfoliating Purifying Toner

Formula Technology

Texturized hydroalcoholic toner, thickened with Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer.

The formula contains glycols : Glycerin and Pentylene Glycol.

The formula contains fragrance.

Preservatives

The formula is protected against microbiological growth with Alcohol Denat. and Salicylic Acid, helped with Pentylene Glycol.

Active Ingredients

The formula contains the following active ingredients :

– Potassium Alum

– Salicylic Acid

– Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

– Zinc Gluconate

– Copper Gluconate

– Vitreoscilla Ferment

Biotherm Pure.fect Skin Pure Skin Effect Hydrating Gel

Formula Technology

O/W emulsion, emulsified with Poloxamer 338, thickened and stabilized with Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide / Carbomer.

The oil phase is made of Dimethicone, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate.

The aqueous phase contains glycols : Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol and “Aquatoril” / NOF Wilbride S-753 (PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin). It also contains Alcohol Denat.

The formula contains several powder : Silica, Perlite and Lauryl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, Polymethylsilsesquioxane.

The formula contains fragrance.

Preservatives

The formula is protected against microbiological growth by Alcohol Denat., Salicylic Acid, helped by Dipropylene Glycol and Caprylyl Glycol.

Active Ingredients

The formula contains the following active ingredients :

– NOF Wilbride S-753 (PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin) (trademarked as “Aquatoril“)

– Salicylic Acid

– Codif Phycosaccharide AC (Hydrolyzed Algin (and) Zinc Sulfate)

– Tocopherol

– Vitreoscilla Ferment

Powders (Silica, Perlite and Lauryl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, Polymethylsilsesquioxane) could also be considered as active ingredients in this formula, since they participate in its mattifying properties.

Biotherm Pure.fect Skin Anti-imperfection Targeted Solution

Formula Technology

Hydroalcoholic gel thickened by Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, containing Alcohol and glycols : Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol.

The formula contains fragrance.

Preservatives

The formula is protected against microbiological growth by Alcohol, Salicylic Acid, helped by Pentylene Glycol

Active Ingredients

The formula contains the following active ingredients :

– Potassium Alum

– Salicylic Acid

– Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

– Zinc Gluconate

– Copper Gluconate

– Vitreoscilla Ferment

Ingredients

Anti-Shine Gentle Scrub Soap Bar

Anti-shine Purifying Cleansing Gel

Micro-exfoliating Purifying Toner

Pure Skin Effect Hydrating Gel

Anti-imperfection Targeted Solution

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