Clinique Moisture Surge Intense Skin Fortifying Hydrator

Clinique is adding a new formula to its Moisture Surge range : Moisture Surge Intense Skin Fortifying Hydrator.

Currently launched in Asia, the new Moisture Surge Intense Skin Fortifying Hydrator is announced in next January 2012 in Europe.

Clinique Moisture Surge Intense Skin Fortifying Hydrator

This new product contains several active ingredients, devided in two groups answering two needs of dry skins identified by Clinique :

1) “Maximum Hydration” :

The formula is claimed to contain a cocktail of ingredients that “that work synergistically to attract, retain and bind moisture to the skin”. For each ingredient, Clinique gives some details of its mode of action :

Olive Squalane : Clinique says that  “human skin naturally produces small amounts of squalane to keep skin hydrated. As we age, squalane production decreases and the skin requires additional squalane to maintain the skin’s delicate moisture balance”. Actually, skin produces Squalene. Squalane is the saturated form of squalane. Squalane and squalene have the same interesting properties on the skin (moisturizer), but Squalane is easier to formulate since less susceptible to be oxidized.

Ahnfeltia Concinna Extract : Clinique says that “this water-binding red algae extract adds suppleness to the living layers of the skin“. This ingredient very probably corresponds to Apt® supplied by Centerchem. This ingredient is a bio-engineered from a selected strain of red marine algae (Ahnfeltia concinna). Apt® (INCI name : Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Ahnfeltia Concinna Extract) is claimed to  “increase cell turnover, firmness, elasticity and smoothness and brings about fine line reduction. It also contributes excellent skin feel and moisturization properties to creams, lotions, gels and serums.

Sodium Hyaluronate : Clinique says that “by attracting and binding moisture to the top layers of the skin, it provides both immediate and long-term moisturisation benefits.” Contrary to what one often believe, Sodium Hyaluronate / Hyaluronic Acid does not have the same properties in a cream and in plastic surgery. As a large molecule, it can form a gel when used at high concentration, that can be injected in the skin in plastic surgery to fill wrinkles for example. But when used in a cream, due to the large size of the molecule, Sodium Hyaluronate / Hyaluronic Acid does not penetrates into the skin, but stays at its surface. Here Clinique uses the real benefits of Sodium Hyaluronate / Hyaluronic Acid when used in a cream : its good water binding properties.

Glycerin: said to be “a tried-and-true humectant that attracts and binds moisture to the skin”, glycerin has indeed very good water binding properties.

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice : said to “gently and effectively softens and soothes the skin“.

2) “Moisture Barrier Repair Technology” :

This technology is claimed to create an emollient layer on the skin’s surface while promoting increased production of lipids in the moisture barrier thanks to several active ingredients :

Cholesterol: said by Clinique to be “a skin-friendly lipid naturally attracts to other lipids found within the skin that assist in the immediate repair of the moisture barrier“, it is indeed an essential structural component of mammalian cell membranes and is required to establish proper membrane permeability and fluidity.

Pyridoxine Dipalmitate (Vitamin B6) : claimed to  “increase the production of natural ceramides, which are key components of the moisture barrie. Adding ceramides helps to speed up the process of barrier repair and increases barrier strength”. Pyridoxine Dipalmitate is actually a Vitamine B6 derivative. It could correspond to Nikkol DP supplied by Nikko Chemicals. Vitamine B6 is a water soluble vitamine, but with the Dipalmitate chain it is more lipophilic, and has an improved percutaneous absorption and stability.

Linoleic Acid : said to be “a natural component of the moisture barrier that provides immediate repair benefits.” Also called Omega 6, it is part of the essential fatty acids that humans and animals must ingest for good health.

Wheat (Triticum Vulgare) Bran Extract/ Olive (Olea Europaea) Extract : claimed to “help to repair the lipid barrier from the surface, increasing moisture retention.”


By A.B.

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