Clarins adds a new anti-aging range to its skincare line, linking complexion glow and skin aging.
Technology / Formula structure :
O/W emulsion based Seppic Montanov 68 (Cetearyl Glucoside (and) Cetearyl Alcohol) / Croda Arlacel 165 (Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate), stabilized and thickened with Seppic Sepinov EMT 10 (Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer).
The oil phase is made of Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isononyl Isononanoate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Oil and Pentaerythrityl Distearate .
The aqueous phase contains Glycerin, and two other glycols : Pentylene glycol (more probably use as co-preservative than hum and Butylene glycol.
The formula contains pearls (mica) and a dye (CI 14700).
Preservative system :
The formula is protected against microorganisms by Sodium Dehydroacetate, Phenoxyethanol and Potassium Sorbate, helped by a co-preservative : Pentylene Glycol.
The formula also contains Disodium EDTA and Citric Acid as sequestrants and pH adjuster.
Active ingredients / Claims :
Clarins Vital Light Day / Clarins Capital Lumière Jour is basically an anti-aging skincare, with an emphasis made on complexion glow.
Indeed, the story of the Vital Light range is based on the concept of the “capital lumière”, name of the range in French. The sense of this would be in English “light capital” or “light asset”, meaning that skin originally has the capacity to reflect light. Clarins explains that with age, this light capital / light asset decreases. This is the core of the concept of the Vital Light / Capital Lumière range. The aim of this range is to improve skin condition to restore this light capital / light asset.
The story is told like this : Clarins states that 10% of light is directly reflected by skin. 90% penetrates deeped. Collagen fibers reflect this light, called “skin deep brighteness”. Young skin has an intrinsic light capital : it has the best conditions to reflect light. However, with age, this light capital decreases : derm is desorganized, skin is less firm, wrinkles appear, the light is less reflected. Here comes Clarins answer : Vital Light / Capital Lumière, to smooth skin, to reduce wrinkles, for a glowing complexion.
The new range corrects aging signs to restore light capital / light asset :
– it fights cellular aging
– it reorganizes the derm
– it stimulates microcirculation
– it unifyies complexion by controling melanin production
The efficiency of the formula is claimed to be linked to three “pioneer plant” extracts. These plants are said “pioneer” because they have the hability to adapt to the most hostile soils and climates.
– Cochlearia Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stalk Extract : extract of Scurvy-grass, a plant adapted to life on the seashore, a environment rich in salt. This ingredient is claimed to be exclusive to Clarins, protected by a patent. Scurvy-grass is rich in Vitamin C, and is known to be antisceptic and fortifying. In the Clarins formula, it is claimed to have regenerating properties, to stimulate collagen production, to eliminate oxidized proteins, to inihibit glycation, and to delay cell senescence.
– Waltheria extract : the ingredient list does not mention this extract, but Tiliroside, a flavonoid present in Waltheria. It seems supplied by Merck / RonaCare, and have anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory (down-regulation of the overproduction of substances such as NO, TNF-alpha, tissue factor and thrombomodulin, all known to be involved in inflammation) and anti-aging (anti-elastase and anti-collagenase) activities. Moreover, Merck / RonaCare Tiliroside is approved by NaTrue and EcoCert. Clarins Herbarium states that the Clarins Waltheria extract is “titrated to 95 % of tiliroside”. Otherwise, Merck owns a patent on an extraction method for producing plant extracts, especially Waltheria Paniculata extracts containing tiliroside. In Vital Light / Capital Lumière, the Waltheria extract is claimed to be associated in a patented complex with a tripeptide. This tripeptide is the Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate present in the ingredient list. It is one of the two peptides of Pentapharm Syn-Tack. Surprisingly, the other peptide of Syn-Tack is not present in Clarins formula (Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine). Syn-Tack is claimed to improve skin structural integrity, epidermal nourishment and molecular communication within the skin, leading to improved skin compactness, reduced wrinkles, increased skin tonicity and increased skin firmness. Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate participating to the efficiency of Syn-Tack, it can be considered as an anti-aging peptide. The patented complex Waltheria extract / Tiliroside and Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate is claimed to restructure the dermal network, to eliminate oxidized collagen and to stimulate collagen production.
– Spergularia Rubra Extract : extract of Red sandspurry, originated from Marrocco and adapted to grow in sand. It is claimed to be exclusive to Clarins, and to have an anti-hyperpigmentation efficiency : it fights against pigmentary spots and unifies complexion.
Apart from these 4 ingredients, Vital Light / Capital Lumière contains other active ingredients :
– Tocopheryl Acetate : Vitamin E derivative used as an alternative to tocopherol
– Thermus Thermophillus Ferment : sold by Sederma as Venuceane, an anti-aging ingredient claimed to “potentiates the self-protective capability of the skin, generating a flexible and modulated response to aggression” and to “prevent the visible signs of photo-ageing (spots, wrinkles, dryness), protects cell structures from UV damage and reinforces skin integrity”. Even if not claimed as a “star” ingredient, it is also an extremophile, since it is a extract of Thermus thermophilus, a microorganism that lives in very hostile environment high temperatures (>70°C/158°F), pressures 200 – 400 times greater than atmospheric pressure, high concentrations of sulfur and heavy metals, and low oxygen levels.
– Lapsana Communis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract : extract of Succory Dock-Cress, it is claimed by Clarins to have anti-pollution properties by an anti-free radical and an anti-inflammatory benefits. Clarins owns a patent US20090035235 on this active ingredient, explaining that the active ingredient is obtained by hydroglycolic extraction of the aerial part of the plant. The patent protects the association of a Lapsana Communis extract and a Camellia Sinensis extract titrated in total polyphenols and in PCO (proanthocyanidin oligomers). This association is claimed to “combate and prevent the effects of atmospheric pollution on the skin” based on the assessment of the antiradical effect of the complex on human keratinocytes in culture, and on its effect on the energetic metabolism.
– Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract : part of the complex described above with Lapsana Communis extract. According to patent US20090035235, it is obtained by hydroglycolic extraction of the leaves of white tea.
– Rhodiola Rosea Root Extract : according to Clarins Herbarium, it would “ensure a significant level of protection against biological stress factors”, thus having anti-pollution efficiency. Even if it is not among the three extremophile” star ingredients cited above, Rhodiola Rosea is also an extremophile plant, growing in the Arctic regions, and having the capacity to survive very extreme temperatures. This extract could be provided by Arch Chemicals under the tradename NAB Rhodiola Extract. It is claimed to provide an anti-oxidant activity and thermal protection in human keratinocytes, at both hot and cold temperatures as well as stimulating oxygen respiration in nerve cells.
The efficacy of the formula is claimed to have been tested of 360 women “across all continents”, with the following results :
– skin smoother from the first application : 91% based on autoevaluation by 148 women
– skin firmer and brighter after 3 weeks : 80% based on autoevaluation by 54 women
Finally, an emphasis is made on the sensoriality of texture and fragrance.
As usual, Clarins has developped a very nice texture, pleasant to apply, based on a sugar derivative surfactant (Seppic Montanov 68), associated to fatty esters with pleasant feels. It is undeniably a force of Clarins : the textures and fragrance of its skincare are always carefully worked to be pleasant when applied and with a comfortable afterfeel. It is a very smart approach since above measured efficiency and strong claims, a consumer will have a positive opinion on a skincare if its texture and application is pleasant.
On the other side, the construction of Vital Light / Capital Lumière concept is disappointing. It looks like the global concept of Vital Light / Capital Lumière is made of various ideas poorly linked between each other : a formula with classical anti-aging / anti-spot properties is associated with “pioneer” plant extract with properties not linked to their “pioneer” origins (there is no link between the fact that they survive in hard conditions and their efficacy on skin). The whole “light” concept is based indirectly to formulas properties, there is no star active ingredient specifically working on “light”. It could be said, based on the story of Vital Light / Capital Lumière concept, that every other anti-aging / anti-spot skincare could do the same. However, the good idea is to link complexion glow to aging, complexion glow being more often discussed in products targeting young women.
Ingredient List :
|Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Oil|
|Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer|
|Cochlearia Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stalk Extract|
|Spergularia Rubra Extract|
|Thermus Thermophillus Ferment|
|Lapsana Communis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract|
|Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate|
|Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract|
|Rhodiola Rosea Root Extract|
|Sodium Lauryl Sulfate|