Estée Lauder is renovating from June 2012 its Perfectionist CP+ into a improved version, Perfectionist CP+R.
The concept of the renovated formula is based on skin cell energy. A cascade of events would eventually cause appearance of lines and wrinkles :
1) Skin’s natural support structure needs is sustained by energy of our cells
2) This energy decreases with aging
3) Consequently, skin loses its ability to respond the ageing process.
4) This leads to the appearance of lines and wrinkles
Based on this cascade, Lauder claimed to formulate Perfectionist CP+R to optimize the skin’s wrinkle-fighting ability by boosting its natural energy potential. This is claimed to be achieved thanks to a new technology, CPR-75 Technology. “CPR” stands for “correct”, “prevention” and “repair”.
The major claimed active ingredients in this new product are :
– Artemia Extract : a zooplankton obtained via marine biotechnology, said to help recharge skin’s appearance. This ingredients is very probably corresponding to ISP Vincience GP4G IS (INCI Name : Water (and) Glycerin (and) Artemia Extract), claimed to be a “unique plankton extract that energizes, protects skin from environmental stresses, and enhances maintenance and repair”, with the following properties : cellular energizer and revitalizer that increases cAMP in vitro, stimulates protein synthesis (keratin, filaggrin, collagen, fibronectin) in vitro, important effect on DNA protection, induces HSP70 in stress-free manner, protects agains different stresses (in particular UV stress) and photoaging, restores the decrease of HSP70 in skin caused by aging or by treatment with retinoids. ISP Vinsience owns a patent on this specific use of Artemia Extract.
This ingredient has already been used by Lauder in Resilience Lift Firming/Sculpting Face and Neck Creme SPF 15 – Normal/Combination Skin.
– A Whey Extract named “Advanced Restructuring Protein”, said to help support skin’s natural collagen and fibronectin. Estée Lauder already used a whey extract in several of its products, that we identified as being CLR PC™-Milk Peptide Complex (INCI Name : Whey Protein), and claimed by its supplier to visibly decrease signs of ageing.
– Chlorella Vulgaris Extract : an extract of micro-algae, said to help recharge skin’s natural energized look and support structural proteins. This ingredient could correspond to Barnet Chlorellagen DP (INCI Name : Chlorella Vulgaris Extract), Barnet being a supplier Estée Lauder often work with. This ingredient is claimed by its supplier to be rich in Lysine, Proline, Glycine and Alanine. It has be shown in vitro to stimulate collagen synthesis, to inhibit collagenase, to promote TIMP-1, TIMP-2 and TIMP-3, protectors of collagen and elastin against degradation.
Apart from the active ingredients, the formula is claimed to contain :
– “flexible elastomer technology” said to instantly fill-in and “immobilize” the look of wrinkle. This could be silicone elastomer.
– “light diffusion optics” said to immediately diffuse and scatter light, blurring the look of lines and wrinkles and neutralising sallowness, dark spots and discolorations. This could correspond to pearls and powders with specific soft focus properties
– “wrinkle lift restructuring peptides”, maybe corresponding to tensing natural polymers, like LS Vegeseryl.