Estée Lauder will update its Resilience range by the end of August 2011 as a “Firming/Sculpting Collection”.
Estée Lauder has announced the launch of its new Resilience Lift Firming/Sculpting Collection for the end of August 2011. The renovated range will be made of 6 formulas :
– Resilience Lift Firming/Sculpting Face and Neck Creme SPF 15 – Normal/Combination Skin
– Resilience Lift Firming/Sculpting Face and Neck Creme SPF 15 – Dry Skin
– Resilience Lift Firming/Sculpting Face and Neck Creme SPF 15 Lotion – Normal/Combination Skin
– Resilience Lift Night Firming/Sculpting Face and Neck Creme
– Resilience Lift Firming/Sculpting Eye Creme
– Resilience Lift Instant Action Lift Treatment
Claims & Active ingredients
Resilience Lift is the skincare range of Estée Lauder targetting the “mid-life” women, whose skins experience “dullness, dehydration and gradual breakdown of collagen and elastin, resulting in sagging skin”. Resilience has always been above all a lifting/firming range. But with this update, Estée Lauder comes with a new concept : ” a weak support structure not only causes skin to sag, but also prevents skin from absorbing and reflecting light the way young skin does, resulting in a loss of youthful vitality and radiance”.
Doesn’t this reminds you the concept of Clarins last skincare launch, Vital Light /Capital Lumière ? Concepts linking aging, light, complexion and radiance are trendy these days…
So what are Lauder’s answer to sagging and lack of radiance for mid-life women ? It is different between day and night, and specific for the eye area.
Face and Neck Cremes and Lotion for day time
The innovation claimed by Lauder for its Resilience Lift Firming/Sculpting day formulas is the use of visible light to activate a “Photo-Activated Lift Complex“, made of three ingredients :
– Plankton Extract : it is claimed to be an enzyme that helps inhibit collagen degradation when photo-activated (i.e. when exposed to day visible light)
– Malachite : it would have a more optical role, since it is claimed to absorb one wavelengh of color of visible light and re-emit another one, improving radiance of skin
– Mimosa Extract : claimed to be a booster of collagen production
This complex is associated with the named “Sirtuin 3D Technology“. This technology would activate the SIRT-3 gene (involved in the activation of enzymes that generate ATP – the energy molecule of the cells), and consequently the production of collagen, elastin and laminin, the fibers of the skin.
A closer look on the Resilience Lift Firming/Sculpting Face and Neck Creme SPF 15 – Normal/Combination Skin is given below.
Face and Neck Creme for night time
According to Lauder scientist, night is the time when skin can recover from damaged occured during day time. To help skin recover, the new Resilience Lift Night formula contains a “Nocturnal Lift Complex” made of :
– “K3 Vitamin C”, said to “help skin build its support network” by “helping skin’s critical proteins : collagen, elastin and laminin”
– “Sirtuin NL1 Technology“, linked to another gene, SIRT-1, said to help to regulate the lifespan of skin’s epidermal cells. This technology would allow cells to “slow down”, and thus provide skin the “critical time it needs to recover from day damages”.
The eye creme is claimed to contains both day and night complexes : the “Photo-Activated Lift Complex” and the “Photo-Activated Lift Complex“, associated with optical technologies (i.e. pearls and powders) claimed to “instantly blur the look of lines” around the eyes.
Instant lift Treatment
Lauder has added to the Resilience Lift range an Instant Action Lift Treatment, with a claimed very short term efficacy. The word use for the result given by this formula is a “mini lift“.
Presented in a pack provided with a “flex-tip applicator“, it contains a “CustomSculpt Technology” that would be able to “precisely and immediately target and plump areas prone to sagging for a tighter, firmer feeling”. Lauder claims that 92% of testing women felt their skin tighter instantly.
Closer look to the Resilience Lift Firming/Sculpting Face and Neck Creme SPF 15 – Normal/Combination Skin
In terms of structure, this SPF 15 formula is quite classical, an O/W emulsion based on Croda Arlacel 165 and fatty alcohols, stabilized with Xanthan Gum, all very very classical raw material. The sophistication of the texture is more in the oil phase, made of an impressive number of different oils.
It is also worth to notice that Lauder seems to pay a special attention to the preservative system of its new formulas : now that parabens seems forbidden for Lauder’s formulators, classical other preservative molecules are used (i.e. Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol) associated to glycols. But here is used a new generation of preservative raw material, Arch Biovert, that seems very promising when reading its technical data sheet.
Appart from these very technical considerations, a special mention can be given to the active ingredients : as usual, a huge number of active are present in Estee Lauder brand formulas. Here, one can count 27 different active ingredients. The origin of all these active ingredient is very diverse. They can be proprietary : now owner of AGI Dermatics, Lauder uses its inherited active ingredients in several of its latest launches. Just like we have notices several of them in Clinique Laser Focus Serum, two of them are used in the Resilience Creme SPF 15. Other are patented by Lauder, like Acetyl Glucosamine. And other are supplied by external suppliers. All of them seem selected to fit with an anti-aging positioning of the formula.
However, since a story must be built to catch consumer attention, only 4 were selected among these active ingredient to build an interesting story around aging, sagging and light, renovating the Resilience “reason why”.
Active ingredients / Claims
As usual in Lauder formulas, this formula contains numerous active ingredients apart from those claimed. Here is the list of identified active ingredients :
– Octinoxate : UVB filter
– Laminaria Digitata Extract : could be BASF Seanergilium BG, claimed to increase the quantity of intracellular ATP and activates its rate of synthesis. It could be the “Sirtuin 3D Technology” claimed by Lauder about the Resilience Day Cream. According to this article from Happi about a previous Re-Nutriv launch from Lauder, this ingredient “comes from a plant known as silketare. This ingredient is created through a patented process and comes from an incomparable sea plant that can only be harvested for a few months each year. Silketare helps boost SIRT-3, a “longevity gene” which plays a vital role in skin cell’s mitochondrial function, according to the company.”
– Algae Extract
– Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract : several suppliers exist for this ingredient, claimed in Resilience Day Creme SPF 15 formula to be a booster of collagen production.
– Yeast Extract/Faex/Extait de Levure
– Plankton Extract : could very probably correspond to AGI Dermatics Photosomes, already used in Clinique Laser Focus Wrinkle & UV Damage Corrector. As already written in Clinique formula study, according to this patent owned by Estée Lauder (mother company of Clinique, and owner of AGI Dermatics since Sept. 2008), Photosomes are liposomes encapsulating “a mixture of plankton extract, water, and lecithin”, preferentially Anacystis Nidulans phytoplankton. It is said to contain an effective amount of photolyase enzyme which, in the presence of day light, contributes to the decomposition of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers produced due to UV radiation, thus achieving a repair effect for the skin. Photosomes are the property of AGI Dermatics / Estée Lauder, and supplied by Barnet. The properties of this active ingredient described in the patent perfectly fit with the one given for the Plankton Extract used in the new Resilience Day Creme.
– Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate : also used in Clinique Laser Focus formula, it is sold under the trade name Vitagen by Macrocare, it is presented as a very stable Vitamin C derivative (more than pure Vitamin C, but also more than Vitamin CG and Ascorbyl MgPO4). It is claimed to be very active on cell proliferation, collagen synthesis, and whitening, active as an anti-oxidant, and slightly active as a cure of UV damage.
– Thermus Thermophilus Ferment : could be Venuceane sold by Sederma, an anti-aging ingredient claimed to “potentiates the self-protective capability of the skin, generating a flexible and modulated response to aggression” and to “prevent the visible signs of photo-ageing (spots, wrinkles, dryness), protects cell structures from UV damage and reinforces skin integrity”. Even if not claimed as a “star” ingredient, it is also an extremophile, since it is a extract of Thermus thermophilus, a microorganism that lives in very hostile environment high temperatures (>70°C/158°F), pressures 200 – 400 times greater than atmospheric pressure, high concentrations of sulfur and heavy metals, and low oxygen levels
– Saccharomyces Ferment Lysate Filtrate : would be Arch Biodynes EMPP, claimed to be “a new type of yeast fermentation lysate enriched in a variety of unique human-like cytokines and growth factors. This product stimulates the production of soluble elastin (precursor to insoluble elastin) in human fibroblasts”.
– Artemia Extract : corresponds to ISP Vincience GP4G IS, a plankton extract claimed to “energizes, protects skin from environmental stresses, and enhances maintenance and repair”. According to its supplier, it would have the following properties : cellular energizer and revitalizer that increases cAMP in vitro, stimulates protein synthesis (keratin, filaggrin, collagen, fibronectin) in vitro, important effect on DNA protection, induces HSP70 in stress-free manner, protects against different stresses (in particular UV stress) and photoaging, restores the decrease of HSP70 in skin caused by aging or by treatment with retinoids.
– Acetyl Glucosamine : Estee Lauder has patented in 1999 the use of this ingredient as an exfoliating agent. In 2002, Lauder has patented the combination of Cholesterol Sulfate and Aminosugar for its ability to enhance or repair the skin barrier function. And precisely, the new Resilience Day Creme contains Cholesterol/Potassium Sulfate and Acetylglucosamine, an aminosugar.
– Linoleic Acid : straight chain unsaturated omega-6 fatty acid, it would have anti-inflammatory, acne reductive, and moisture retentive properties when applied topically. Moreover, it would be effective in cell regulation and skin-barrier repair, as well as an antioxidant.
– Whey Protein : could correspond to MPC™-Milk Peptide Complex supplied by CLR – Chemlishes Laboratorium Dr Kurt Richter, already seen in Clinique Laser Focus Wrinkle & UV Damage Corrector. It is claimed to visibly reduce the signs of aging. Estée Lauder is working for a long time with CLR : it already used its CLR Repair Complex in Advance Night Repair. – Pinanediol (and) Camphanediol (and) Butylene glycol : another active ingredient from AGI Dermatics, marketed under the trade name Pinoxide, and now exclusively used by Lauder. It is claimed to stimulate collagen production and increase localized blood flow, and several communication were made by AGI on its properties : an article published in 2006 in Nitric Oxide – official journal of the Nitric Oxide Society, a poster at the American Academy of Dermatology – 65th Annual Meeting – February 2–6, 2007 – Washington, DC, a poster at the American Academy of Dermatology – 66th Annual Meeting – February 1–5, 2008 – San Antonio, Texas, a poster at the American Academy of Dermatology – 67th Annual Meeting – March 6–10, 2009 – San Francisco, California.
– Tocopheryl Acetate : Vitamin E derivative
– Ergothioneine : already seen in Clinique Laser Focus Wrinkle & UV Damage Corrector, it has been brought to Lauder by AGI Dermatics, and supplied by Barnet under the trade name Thiotaine, it is claimed to have a role in skin energy production and fatty acid transport, to be an anti-oxidant, especially protector of mitochondria, to be an “anti-stress” molecule, and to have skin clarifying properties. Lauder and AGI own two patents on this ingredient : US20100197750 (Preservation Of Ergothioneine), and the patent linked to the Clinique Laser Focus formula : US6479533 (Methods and compositions for the protection of mitochondria).
– Sodium Hyaluronate : it is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is polysaccharide naturally found in the body, functionning as a tissue lubricant. It is often used as a moisturizer due to its capacity to hold water.
– Decarboxy Carnosine HCl : corresponds to Exsymol Alistin, it is presented as a universal antioxidant.
– Creatine : this active is supplied among others by Evonik under the tradename Tego Cosmo C 100. This active is claimed to revitalization cell energy metabolism, to supports skin protection and to moisturize.
– Zinc PCA : is supplied among others by Solabia under the trade name Zincidone. This active is a Zinc salt, known to inhibit the enzyme that catalyses the production of dihydroxytestosterone, the hormone controlling sebaceous gland activity (Zn inhibits 5-alpha reductase in hypersebborhoea).
– Trehalose : Hayashibara is one of the suppliers of Trehalose. It claims that it “protects skin fibroblasts from dehydration because it replaces water in tissues helping to retain the natural structure of skin and hair. Thus it can be used as an effective moisturiser affording protection from potentially damaging climatic conditions. This is because trehalose replaces water in tissue and reduces the damage from dryness, heat and cold – retaining the natural structure of the skin and hair.”
– Sorbitol : very common ingredient in cosmetic products, it can be used as a moisturizer, but can also help to protect the formula against microbiological growth due to its water-biding properties, that can help decrease the water activity of the formula.
– Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 : sold by Lipotec under the tradename Argireline, claimed to be the “cosmetic alternative to Botulinum Toxin A” by “targeting the same wrinkle-formation mechanism in a very different way”, it would “reduce the depth of expression wrinkles, specially in the forehead and around the eyes”.
– Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate : produced by the partial hydrolysis of starch, the result of this hydrolysis is a mixture of polyols, more precisely of sugar alcohols. These molecules have moisturizing properties. Arch sells Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate under the tradename Spiralex, and claimed to be “a new concept where a modified polyglucose matrix is used to encapsulate active and non-active cosmetic ingredients. The modified polyglucose act as time-release device that slowly delivers the active components to the skin”.
– Malachite : it is a copper carbonate mineral. It is claimed on the Resilience Day Creme SPF 15 to “absorb one wavelengh of color of visible light and re-emit another one, improving radiance of skin”.
Technology / Formula Structure
O/W emulsion emulsified with Croda Arlacel 165 (PEG-100 Stearate / Glyceryl Stearate), helped with Cetyl Alcohol / Behenyl Alcohol / Palmitic Acid / Stearic Acid, stabilized with Xanthan Gum.
The oil phase is made of numerous oils : Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Di-C12-15 Alkyl Fumarate, Petrolatum, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Hexyldecyl Stearate, Dimethicone, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, C12-16 Alcohols, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, Polysilicone-11, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols (Cognis Generol 122N PRL), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride and Phytosterols. It also include a UV filter : Octinoxate at 7.5%.
The aqueous phase contains glycols : Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin and Caprylyl Glycol.
The formula also contains powders – Polyethylene, Potato Starch Modified, Polymethyl Methacrylate and Silica – , pearls (Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Alumina) and dyes – Red 4 (CI 14700) and Yellow 5 (CI 19140).
The formula is protected against microbiological growth with Potassium Sorbate and Phenoxyethanol, helped with Disodium EDTA, and glycols as co-preservatives (Pentylene Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin and Caprylyl Glycol). Lauder also uses Arch Biovert (Lactoperoxidase (and) Glucose Oxidase (and) Glucose), claimed to be a ““Preservative-Free” product protection, safe, effective, natural”. More details are given in the technical data sheet of the raw material.
The formula also contains Citric Acid and Sodium Hydroxide as a pH adjuster, and BHT as an antioxidant, and Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate as light-protectant. Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate is sold by EMD Chemicals under the tradename Oxynex ST. It is claimed to “consists of a unique substance which, thanks to its specific structure, protects light-sensitive ingredients and simultaneously ensures light-stability. This active ingredient is called Diethylhexyl Syringylidene Malonate (DESM) and was initially designed as a light stabilizer. In addition to a benzylidene malonate function, DESM has a sterically-stabilized phenolic function that renders it a very potent antioxidant. Both functions aid the stabilization of light-sensitive molecules. Oxynex ST Liquid can improve the stability and efficiency of your products! It provides highly effective stabilization of colorants, fragrances, antioxidants and UV filters”.
|Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate|
|Di-C12-15 Alkyl Fumarate|
|Laminaria Digitata Extract|
|Potato Starch Modified|
|Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil|
|Coleus Barbatus Extract|
|Cucumis Melo (Melon) Fruit Extract|
|Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract|
|Yeast Extract/Faex/Extrait de Levure|
|Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate|
|Thermus Thermophillus Ferment|
|Saccharomyces Ferment Lysate Filtrate|
|Cholesterol/Potassium Sulfate ??????????|
|Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols|
|Decarboxy Carnosine HCl|
|Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate|
|Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate ??????????|
|Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891)|
|Red 4 (CI 14700)|
|Yellow 5 (CI 19140)|