INCI Name :

DIHYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE

Commercial name(s) / Supplier(s) :

This raw material is a captive molecule of Unilever, trademarked as “Glycerol Quat™”. According to this website, it seems that it has been developed with Dow Chemical.

Chemical structure :

Properties :

Glycerol Quat is basically a moisturizing / hydrating agent.

According to this poster available in the press file of the launch of Vaseline Sheer Infusion, to design this molecule, Unilever has based its work on the link established between the humectancy of a molecule, and the balance between its hygroscopic (water-linking-capacity) and its (lipid solubility) properties. This link has led Unilever to develop Glycerol Quat™ – Dihydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, a less lipophilic, more hygroscopic molecule than glycerol. The objective is to compensate the poor moisturizing efficiency of glycerol at outermost layers of skin surface.

Several tests conducted by Unilever demonstrate the interest of this new molecule :

• In vitro measurement of physical properties shows that each molecule of glycerol can hold 0.5 molecules of water and has a lipid solubility Kp of -1.7. Glycerol Quat molecule exhibits 4 times more water binding capacity and 63 times less lipid solubility.
• Glycerol + Glycerol Quat combination improves skin hydration.
• Glycerol + Glycerol Quat combination is effective on dry healthy skin
• Glycerol + Glycerol Quat combination is effective on dry skin associated with eczema

Unilever has applied for several patents to protect its new moisturizing agent :

• a patent application has been filled in November 2004 by Unilever on « Quaternary ammonium polyols salts as anti-aging actives in personal care compositions ».

• a patent application has been filled in September 2005 on « Personal care composition with Glycerin and Hydroxypropyl Quaternary Ammonium Salt ».

• a patent application has been filled at the same time in September 2005 on « Personal care compositions with Silicones and Dihydroxypropyl Trialkyl Ammonium Salts ».

• a patent application has been filled in October 2005 on «Personal care products which include Dihydroxypropyltri(C1-C3 Alkyl) Ammonium Salts ».

• a patent application has been filled in May 2007 on « Personal care composition with Cocoa butter and Dihydroxypropyl Ammonium Salts ».

And communications has been made to valorize the science between Glycerol Quat :

• an article has been published in the Cosmetic Dermatology Journal – February 2010 Volume 23 No. 2 – untitled “Development and Clinical Analysis of a Novel Humectant System of Glycerol, Hydroxyethylurea, and Glycerol Quat”

• an article has been published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology – Volume 60, Issue 3, Supplement 1, Page AB71 (March 2009) – untitled « Performance of novel humectant system on healthy skin : Longer-term improvement of skin condition. » The poster is available in the press file of the launch of Vaseline Sheer Infusion.