Diadermine Bio Expertise

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Diadermine Bio Expertise vignette

Henkel is launching in France in February 2011 the new Bio Expertise range, 5 new organic skincare formulas. Henkel has worked for Diadermine on 5 formulas under the new Bio Expertise range, all 5 compliant with the CosmeBio charter :

Diadermine Bio Expertise

– a Cleansing Water

– a Cleansing Milk

– an Anti-Wrinkle Day Care

– an Anti-Wrinkle Night Care

– an Anti-Wrinkle Eye Care

Diadermine Bio Expertise Cleansing Water

Formula Structure

Aqueous lotion containing Cocamidopropyl Betaine as cleansing surfactant.

Preservative System

The formula is protected against microbiological growth with Sodium Benzoate.

Active Ingredients

Organic Peppermint Water (Mentha Piperita Water)

Organic Lime tree flower extract (Tilia Platyphyllos Flower Water), could be supplied by Fytosan

– Organic Vine bud extract (Vitis Vinifera Bud Extract), that seems to be supplied by Greentech as Organic Cryobuds Hydroglycerined Extract of Red vine, corresponding to “Vinifera Extract” claimed on pack.

Diadermine Bio Expertise Cleansing Milk

Formula Structure

O/W emulsion, emulsified with Cognis Eumulgin VL 75 (Glyceryl Stearate (and) Lauryl Glucoside (and) Glycerin) / Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, helped with Cetearyl Alcohol, and stabilized with Xanthan Gum. Cognis Eumulgin VL 75 is claimed to be universally applicable nonionic emulsifier for the production of cosmetic O/W emulsions. This surfactant is approved by ECOCERT for natural and organic cosmetics.

The aqueous phase contains Glycerin.

The oil phase is made of organic Sunflower oil (Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil), Isopropyl Palmitate, Cocoglycerides and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil.

Preservative System

The formula is protected against microbiological growth by Sodium Benzoate.

Active Ingredients

– Organic Lime tree flower extract (Tilia Platyphyllos Flower Water)

Tocopheryl Acetate

– Organic Vine bud extract (Vitis Vinifera Bud Extract), seeming to be Greentech Organic Cryobuds Hydroglycerined Extract of Red Wine

Diadermine Bio Expertise Anti-Wrinkle Day Care

Formula Structure

O/W emulsion, emulsified with Seppic Montanov 202 (Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside) / Glyceryl Stearate stabilized with Solabia Fucogel 1.5P (Biosaccharide Gum-1) / Xanthan Gum. Seppic Montanov 202 is approved by ECOCERT. It is a O/W emulsifier synthesized from fatty alcohol (origin Rapeseed) and glucose (origin Corn, Wheat or Manioc). Solabia Fucogel 1.5P is a purified biotechnological anionic polysaccharide prepared through bacteria fermentation.

The aqueous phase contains Glycerin and Betaine. Also known as trimethylglycine, it is a natural ingredient claimed to control water balance in skin cells, protect skin against chemical, mechanical and biological irritation, improve skin feel and reduce formulation stickiness.

The oil phase is made of Cognis Cetiol CC (Dicaprylyl Carbonate), organic Sweet Almond Oil (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil), Isopropyl Palmitate, organic Shea Butter Extract (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract), Soy Oil (Glycine Soja Oil). Cetiol CC is claimed to be a fast spreading emollient with a velvet, dry skin feel, and is approved by ECOCERT.

The formula contains a powder of organic Tapioca Starch.

Preservative System

The formula is protected against microbiological growth by Sodium Benzoate, helped with Propanediol. The formula contains a buffer system : Sodium Carbonate / Citric Acid. Propanediol is the INCI name of Zemea Propanediol developed and sold by DuPont Tate & Lyle BioProducts. This diol is approved by ECOCERT. Made from corn sugar, it is claimed among several properties to have antibacterial and antifungal properties.

Active Ingredients

Vitis Vinifera Vine Extract, that seems to be supplied by Breko under the tradename Resveratrox. Breko is a company specialized in wines and their derivatives. Resveratrox is an extract of wine titrated in Resveratrol, and claiming a clinically proven 2-step anti-wrinkle activity (inhibition of muscle contraction / retinoid-like activity) and an anti-aging activity based on Sirtuin-I activation. These claims are substantiated with detailed tests.

organic Lime tree flower extract (Tilia Platyphyllos Flower Water)

organic Peppermint Water (Mentha Piperita Water)

Tocopheryl Acetate

organic Alfalfa extract (Medicago Sativa Extract) : according to this interview of the France Marketing Director of Henkel, the Bio Expertise formula contains “Retinyl of Alfalfal” (“Luzerne” in French). There is no mention of any retinol derivative in the ingredient list of any product of the Bio Expertise range. However, the anti-wrinkle Day Care (and the Night and Eye cares) contain an Alfalfa extract. To fit with the comparison of this active ingredient to a retinol derivative, the organic Alfalfa extract used in Bio Expertise formulas could be Silab Vitanol Bio, approved by ECOCERT. Indeed, Silab has demonstrated on an Alfalfa extract a “retinol-like” activity.

Diadermine Bio Expertise Anti-Wrinkle Night Care

Formula Structure

The structure of the formula is the same as the Anti-Wrinkle Day Care (O/W emulsion with Seppic Montanov 202 / Glyceryl Stearate stabilized with Solabia Fucogel 1.5P / Xanthan Gum).

The aqueous phase is the same.

The oil phase differs from the one of the day care by the addition of organic Evening Primrose Oil (Oenothera Biennis Oil) .

The formula contains also the organic Tapioca Starch powder.

Preservative System

The formula is protected against microbiological growth by the same association Sodium Benzoate / Zemea Propanediol as in Day Care, and contains the same buffer system : Sodium Carbonate / Citric Acid.

Active Ingredients

organic Evening Primrose Oil (Oenothera Biennis Oil)

Breko Resveratrox (Vitis Vinifera Vine Extract) also detailed in the Day Care study

organic Lime tree flower extract (Tilia Platyphyllos Flower Water)

organic Peppermint Water (Mentha Piperita Water)

Tocopheryl Acetate

Silab Vitanol Bio (Medicago Sativa Extract) also detailed in the Day Care study

Diadermine Bio Expertise Anti-Wrinkle Eye Care

Formula Structure

Same structure, aqueous phase and oil phase as Day Care

Preservative System

The Eye Care formula has the same preservative system as Day and Night Care, plus Benzyl Alcohol.

Active Ingredients

organic Peppermint Water (Mentha Piperita Water)

organic Lime tree flower extract (Tilia Platyphyllos Flower Water)

Tocopheryl Acetate

Silab Vitanol Bio (Medicago Sativa Extract) also detailed in the Day Care

Eyebright extract (Euphrasia Officinalis Extract)

Breko Resveratrox (Vitis Vinifera Vine Extract)

General conclusions on Diadermine Bio Expertise formulas

Formula structures :

Three different technologies are used in this Bio Expertise range :

– an aqueous lotion containing a single cleansing surfactant (cocamidopropyl betaine),

and two emulsions :

– an O/W emulsion based on Cognis Eumulgin VL 75 (Glyceryl Stearate (and) Lauryl Glucoside (and) Glycerin) / Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, helped with Cetearyl Alcohol, and stabilized with Xanthan Gum for the Cleansing Milk

– an O/W emulsion based on Seppic Montanov 202 (Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside) / Glyceryl Stearate stabilized with Solabia Fucogel 1.5P (Biosaccharide Gum-1) / Xanthan Gum

Preservative agents :

All the formulas are protected with Sodium Benzoate, added with Zemea Propanediol in all three emulsions, plus Benzyl Alcohol in the Eye Care.

Communication, Active Ingredients & Claims

The concept chosen by Henkel for its organic range is summarized in its name : “Bio Expertise”. “Bio” is the french word for “organic” : Henkel has design organic formulas with “expert” efficacy :

– formulas are not only organic : “99% natural ingredients”, “0% paraben, ethanol, synthetic polymer, paraffin oil, silicone, synthetic dye, synthetic fragrance, PEG”, “12 to 31% of ingredients organically grown”. These claims are consequences of the compliance to the CosmeBio charter which requires to have 99% of natural ingredients, and none of the listed ingredients cited.

– but they also claim efficiency the same way it is usually done on non-organic formulas : “24h moisturization”, “improves skin firmness from the first use”, “wrinkles visibly disappear”, “stimulates skin regeneration during the night”. To reinforce these claims, numeral results are given, based on the percentages of 50 women perceiving efficiency after 4 weeks of use of the Day Cream : “skin is smoothed and tight : 74%”, “skin is toned : 70%”, “skin is younger : 66%”.

The claimed active ingredients for the 3 anti-wrinkle cares are not just basic natural extracts : Henkel named them the same way actives are named in classical non organic skincare, using “molecule” names, and detailling their properties :

– “Organic Plant Retinyl”, claimed to “stimulate collagen synthesis, filling wrinkles from the inside”. It has been identified to be Silab Vitanol Bio.

– “Grape Viniferol”, claimed to “reinforce cell renewal and stimulate their vitality for a firmer and visibly younger skin”, identified as Breko Resveratrox.

Conclusion :

At this time, Diadermine Bio Expertise is only launched in France. However, this launch shows that all the major actors of skincare in mass market want to be part of this new organic : L’Oréal with Garnier Bio Active and Mixa Bio, and Biersdorf with Nivea Pure & Natural, and now Henkel with Diadermine Bio Expertise. Henkel made the choice to put on the market a “expert” organic skincare line, with strong claims, and technical active ingredients, to allow women to choose both natural products and performance.

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